Yesterday I wandered the winding streets of Guanajuato and eventually made my way all the way up to the mummy museum (Museo de las Momias) located very high on one of the many surrounding hills of Guanajuato overlooking the town.
While I’d been warned that it wasn’t for the faint of heart, I think the locals were concerned the “skinny, pale gringo” was more delicate than I really am, or perhaps they were using reverse psychology to make me want to visit even more… either way, I knew it was something I couldn’t leave this city without visiting.
The mummies here are very modern and were begun to be dug up in 1865 all the way until 1958. It seems that the dry climate and soil conditions preserved the mummies naturally. They were removed from their tombs when the families had either moved away and couldn’t be contacted to pay the grave tax, or the remaining family couldn’t afford the tax. There is quite a bit of controversy whether they should be displayed or given a proper burial. The law has now been changed so no new mummified bodies will be exhumed, but those that where removed before are remaining on display.
I’ve been told that the museum entrance fee helps considerably to fill the city coffers. Trying to keep that in mind to alleviate any guilt, I entered the museum and was astonished by the well preserved mummies. Some were in their original clothing, others not… but each and every one of them pulled at my heart strings a bit. Since they are from recent times, many of their names and stories are known and were posted beside the display in Spanish and (some) English. I was surprised that there were a few who’s story had a bit of humour thrown in, others made me want to cry a bit.
As I left the cool, dark museum back into the heat of the sun, I couldn’t help thinking about their lives and their stories. I was also left wondering if any of the people outside selling knick-knacks and souvenirs were their living relatives, and what they were really feeling behind their smiles at the pale gringo.
Museums almost always have a very strong effect on me, this one made me feel both happy to have been able to see something so unique and more than a bit sad and introspective… perhaps that’s what was behind the warnings that it wasn’t for the faint of heart. I am however, very glad I went.
Here’s some photo’s from my visit, some of them are a bit dark because photo’s were allowed as long as flash wasn’t used.
Photos From Guanajuato Mummy Museum

Some of the Many Mummies
Along one of the walls of the museum stand quite a few mummies.

Don Justo Hernandez’s Story
Here’s the story of who Don Justo Hernandez was.

Don Justo Hernandez
Dressed in fine clothes, Don Justo Hernandez now rests in Museo de las Momias.

Mummified Mother
This unfortunate woman and her child died during a Cesarean section. They now rest together.

and Child
This tiny baby is claimed to be the world’s smallest mummy.

Mummy of a Man
I don’t recall who this man is, but I was surprised by how his clothing remained almost perfectly intact.

Female Mummy in Coffin
Again, I don’t remember seeing a sign saying who she was.

Nino con Vestimenta de San Martin’s Story
I’ve tried to translate this below. *

Nino con Vestimenta de San Martin
Here’s the child mentioned in the last story.
* My Spanish is very basic, but here’s the best translation I could do about El Niño con vestimenta de San Martin.
“The religious fervour of the town Guanajuato opens at moments of great pain. Nothing offers consolation over the death of a child but their faith in God. The scrupulous care of the details in the clothing cause us to reflects on the power of faith. The parents have entrusted the soul of their son to Saint Martin of Porres, finding tranquillity and consolation that to them the mystery of the resurrection provides. One notices the scrupulous details in the robe, broom and sandals.”
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Tagged as: Emotions, Guanajuato, Museums
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
Wow. That must have been an intense experience.
It seems like such a sharp contrast from your other experiences in Mexico.
P.S. Can I start calling you “skinny, pale gringo”? :)
Wow, they’re so well preserved. It looks ike they were in motion..
Hi Catia!
Nice blog! I am enjoying your writing. Check my book sometime, ‘A Vagabond in Mexico’. It may give you ideas.
.-= Rio Guzman´s last blog ..Alice in Wonderland | A Brief Quote | Lewis Carroll | Johnny Depp | Mia Wasikowska =-.